well, this pen is kinda complicated to me.
First, it is
ergonomically well made for the hand. using the same design as a parker
urban, but yet lighter, it does not wear the hand down when writing for
long.
Secondly, it employs a wick. That disappoints me a little
thought. But just a little, as the wick can be removed for easy
cleaning. same goes for the nib which can be removed easily. since the
wick and nib can be removed, they can be adjusted to allow wetter or
drier ink flow by adjusting the distance of the wick, which is like a
fountain pen. you can also make the nib finer or flexible, like a
fountain pen. on top of that, that orange ink used feathers, and after
much thought, i reckon this wick should stop the feathering. and it did.
the pen writes well with no feathering. the theory is sound.
the other
plus point of a wick is that there will no leakages due to change in
pressure, i.e. in a flight. So, although i am reluctant to consider it
as a full fledge FP in theory, but it seems to be one in practice.
as a side note, the ink fits the pen!
Sunday, October 9, 2016
Wednesday, August 10, 2016
A pitfall of disassembling fountain pens
A simple demonstration of why disassembling the pen is not how hard
it can be disassembled, but how simple it can turn bad and hard to
assemble.
key takeaway: it is not the hardest to disassemble, but to assemble.
the 2 pens are the same brand and model. hero 373. the original nib depth is the black one. notice that the "GP" does not go into the pen body. the distance from the tip of the nib to the feed is as shown. the silver one is disassembled and the nib is pushed in much deeper.
the result?
the pen with the nib pushed in inner writes without hard start as the tip is nearer the feed, even when i was using a pigment based ink. however, the cap of the pen rotates on the pen as the nib's design contributed to the tightness of the cap.
now, ask youself, do you actually take note of this relationship before disassembling a pen that writes well initially? most people don't, and may end up needing to continue to disassemble and assemble the with it being inked to regain the original state.
and eventually spoil something called mood among other things like the nib, feed and the holder.
key takeaway: it is not the hardest to disassemble, but to assemble.
the 2 pens are the same brand and model. hero 373. the original nib depth is the black one. notice that the "GP" does not go into the pen body. the distance from the tip of the nib to the feed is as shown. the silver one is disassembled and the nib is pushed in much deeper.
the result?
the pen with the nib pushed in inner writes without hard start as the tip is nearer the feed, even when i was using a pigment based ink. however, the cap of the pen rotates on the pen as the nib's design contributed to the tightness of the cap.
now, ask youself, do you actually take note of this relationship before disassembling a pen that writes well initially? most people don't, and may end up needing to continue to disassemble and assemble the with it being inked to regain the original state.
and eventually spoil something called mood among other things like the nib, feed and the holder.
Tuesday, July 12, 2016
modern sheaffer twist converter - one problem you should know.
Frequency of that happening ? i have a broken one, and i have already found 4 broken ones in new sheaffer pens sold over the sheaffer counters. I conclude it is quite high.
And i had thought a lot of people knew about this. Apparently not. And therefore this post.
How then do you detect it? First, twist the piston while the converter is inserted into the pen. if the converter twists, do a visual check, the confirmatory one as shown below;
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| This is broken converter. Notice the break line on the inner and second ring in black? that means it will not be tight. |
Thursday, July 7, 2016
Pilot kakuno - customs. Universe, pure and bronze edition.
Pilot kakuno - customs. Universe, pure and bronze edition. Made quite
some time back, now playing around with the colors matching...
Sunday, July 3, 2016
The Slim : Version 1
I can finally close the chapter for this pen! a metallic body, with a
colorful and air tight cap! took me a long while to find that right cap
to lego every thing together (and getting scorn at by Tony for being
dull because it is always lying there all this while). it does not take a
genius to realize, just needed that touch from The Creator above. I now
prove to myself that I am stupid. :p
Nothing fanciful, all parts are not created nor bought. Marrying them together creates a pen of its kind. very light weight, durable due to its metallic body. the details are in the pictures.
Now to probably more with a green cap, a red cap, a pink cap...wait, a kakuno family?! No.......
Nothing fanciful, all parts are not created nor bought. Marrying them together creates a pen of its kind. very light weight, durable due to its metallic body. the details are in the pictures.
Now to probably more with a green cap, a red cap, a pink cap...wait, a kakuno family?! No.......
Saturday, June 25, 2016
Comparison between twsbi AL orange and AL lava.
comparison between twsbi AL orange and AL lava. I am satisfying my own curiosity too.
i have an orange and 2 lava versions. this is 1) to ensure i am fair to 2 dealers, 2) face it, lava will be snapped up in no time, 3) it is easier for comparison.
To the naked eye, their color tone is similar. Too similar. However, a close up will show that the orange AL is coated in a straight line fashion. The lava on the other hand, has a finer coat and is very much uniform. that is the biggest difference. I attribute that not due to a change in color pigment but a different method used in coating.
Wednesday, June 22, 2016
PSMKII - pen stand - mark 2
yup, it is done. using PSMK1 as
its base design, it retains all its features - mobility, cheap, and
fully functional - and removes all the unnecessary stuff. It is a little
bit shorter than PAMK1, and removes all the protruding items which
makes the keeping of the stand a little tough. grooves are added instead
to the body, some a bit rough at the moment since this is a first
prototype, but will certainly be smoother with its replicate. anyway,
the details are in the pictures.
simple enough isn't it? you can make it yourself, i am sure. But if you live near me and wants a replication of this, i don't think it will be a problem.
Now to move on the PSMKIII. the one with the whistles.
simple enough isn't it? you can make it yourself, i am sure. But if you live near me and wants a replication of this, i don't think it will be a problem.
Now to move on the PSMKIII. the one with the whistles.
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| basic internal structure of the stand. |
![]() |
| slightly shorter than a twsbi eco. top side |
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| another side. |
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| bottom view. |
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| the stand transformed. |
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| Takes an eco. No problem |
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| takes a short muji. note the different groove used. |
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| even if the pen is rounded at the edge. no problem. |
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| can be used in this way too as a "desk pen". |
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bottom of the pen stand.
|
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| the 2 grooves made. |
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| the drain on top to ensure the pen stays in place. |
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| 2 piece structure, again. |
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| comparison with PSMK1. sleeker design. |
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i needed another pen stand, so i made another. This time with the prototype as the example, the parts are made more properly (the grooves are cut at the right depth!) and in a shorter amount of time. i think this design is starting to mature.
The top is the new one, the bottom is the prototype.
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